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popping noise

Discussion in 'Suspension & Brakes' started by PiPrEzZa, Feb 12, 2011.

  1. PiPrEzZa
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    PiPrEzZa New Member

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    Jan 30, 2011
    I ran into a curb pretty fast ( going about 65 on a right turn) i cracked the control on the driver side, ball joints , and tie rod. all these parts have been replaced. Now everytime i do a turn theres a loud popping noise on a certain dip or even on a left or right turn. anyone ever had this problem or know what it is?
     
  2. CadenceScion
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    CadenceScion Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Location:
    2006 Scion tC
    Have your CV Shafts, front struts/strut braces and sway bar checked.
     
  3. navylife59
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    navylife59 Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2006
    Location:
    Emory, Texas or Gretna, LA
    Could also be the thrust bearing on the top of the McPherson Strut or the mount itself. This lends itself to popping noises and jerks while turning the wheels. Bumps in the road tend to make it worse while turning. Check the three upper mounting bolts to make sure the nuts are still seated. You can turn the steering the full motion from lock to lock with someone standing next to the strut mount to listen for these noises.

    The other possibility could be the outer CV axle joint or the carrier bearing for the right shaft (located on the backside of the engine block). This usually causes successive pops and jerks. An easy method for testing this is to find a big, open parking lot. Backup slowly (10MPH or less) making extreme tight turns (full lock), repeating for both sides, listening for the noises. If there is no constant popping, clicking, or jerking, then the CV joint should be OK.

    Last would be the wheel bearing having excessive play or a loose axle nut. The worn bearing usually will have a whirring noise associated but not always. If after all this you are uncertain, take it to a professional mechanic with experience in suspensions. Remember, just because a guy/gal can turn a wrench does not mean they know everything automotive.
     
  4. PiPrEzZa
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    PiPrEzZa New Member

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    Jan 30, 2011
    I took it to a mechanic before but they couldn't figure it. The cv boot busted one time so I had it replaced. I will check on those things you mentioned. It's getting really annoying.
     
  5. PiPrEzZa
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    PiPrEzZa New Member

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    Jan 30, 2011
    forgot to put that after replacing the cv boot, it still makes the popping noise. If anyone lives in so cal and can recommend a good shop let me know.
     
  6. navylife59
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    navylife59 Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2006
    Location:
    Emory, Texas or Gretna, LA
    The CV boot is just a dust cover to keep the grease in and contaminants out. How long did you drive with the cover damaged (compromised)? It usually takes a while for the grease to be displaced if it is just a small tear but the contamination can begin causing premature wear right away. If enough grit and time accumulates, the wear be excessive enough to start the popping from too much play.
     
  7. PiPrEzZa
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    PiPrEzZa New Member

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    Jan 30, 2011
    its been awhile, ive been on the forums. i noticed the grease on the rims and rotors on the car so i got it replaced right away. I still have the popping noise, along with a creeking noise on slow speeds about 0-10 mph. Im wondering all this popping noise can it be the endlinks, wrong way of installing the ball joints and control arms and tie rods, those were replaced when i hit the curb or my sway bar maybe screwed up.
     
  8. navylife59
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    navylife59 Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2006
    Location:
    Emory, Texas or Gretna, LA
    K-Member.jpg
    Is your K-member bolted up tight? There are two mounting points (one on each side) that can be damaged by a severe curbing. This could be a possibility. The Endlinks can be as well. Did you say that you had the CV joints replaced?
     
  9. connman429
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    connman429 Member

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    Apr 26, 2010
    Did you get your alignment checked after you replaced the components? An extremely hard impact (like yours) can push the caster out of spec. If you did get it aligned, look at the results sheet. You should have less than one percent difference between the front wheels.
     
  10. Bartlett62411
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    Bartlett62411 New Member

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    Aug 19, 2011
    I'm having the same problem now, i ran into a curb doing about 30mph the other day. I replaced the control arm, sway bar link, and inner tie rod. And some reason my tired still like a -2 degree its pushing it out at the top of the tire almost like / and on top of that its making a popping noise when i hit some bumps, brake kinda hard, and some turns, there is also a noise that also sounds like a bird chirping with the rotation of my tire (the faster i go the more consistent it is). ive been trying to rule everything out, i took it to a toyota shop and told him what was going on and he was suggesting it might be the whole hub bent maybe bearings or the strut. i personally thought it was the strut because since its pushing the top of the tire outwards that the only thing that controls the top degree. Can i get someone elses opinion?
     
  11. connman429
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    connman429 Member

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    Apr 26, 2010
    Can you duplicate any of the noises while you are not driving? You will have a lot better luck isolating the pop if you are sitting right in front of it, rather than the driver's seat. Place your car on jack stands. Remove the wheel. Use a jack to put your suspension through full travel. Next, place the transmission in neutral. Use a speed handle wrench or a power drill to spin the hub (the main hub nut requires a 30mm deep 12-point) as fast as you can. Use a combination square to check the angles of things like your studs and the drive shaft. You can check the strut at home. Remove it, then remove the spring (carefully!). This will expose the rod, which can then be checked with a straight-edge.
     
  12. Bartlett62411
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    Bartlett62411 New Member

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    Aug 19, 2011
    i put the car up on jackstands and turned the wheels and the one side was barely turning, the rotor was rubbing up against part of the caliper. which is probably part of the noise that it makes when i drive. Would that be a bent hub then? and i put it under suspension and it didnt make the popping noise so im assuming thats got to be my strut. and what do you mean by be careful removing the spring? lol is it gonna shoot off?
     
  13. connman429
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    connman429 Member

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    Apr 26, 2010
    The brake rubbing is probably the source of the chirping. Make sure your rotor is not bent and your caliper is not pushed out of alignment.

    The spring is preloaded; it will expand rather rapidly, unless you clamp it first. It won't hit you in the face or go through a window, but finger injuries are a bugger.

    The purpose of jacking the wheel is to put the suspension through the full travel. Usually a popping noise in the suspension is caused by the sudden release of a binding condition. A slower, but more thorough way is to disconnect components one by one and move them by hand. If something won't budge, or stops halfway through the travel, you have found a problem. It takes a certain amount of judgement as to the proper amount of force required to move it, though.
     

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